Franca, Fashionista of the Spectacle

If you’ve been wondering how it happened that fashion spreads have turned into neo-modern tableaux vivants, the answer is probably Franca Sozzani, the late editor of Vogue Italia. Starting the 1980s, Franca took the fashion spread to new frontiers of weirdness and, oddly enough, social relevance.  Formerly the province of fashion mavens and Italians, a recent documentary on Netflix, entitled “Franca: Chaos and Creation” makes it possible for all of us to appreciate her subversive genius for art and fashion. Read More

Fashionable Revolution

Although the times are unsettled and revolutionary jargon is in the air, one doesn’t expect a women’s fashion magazine to employ it as a motif, or at least, not one as haute as W.   In a recent issue, I discovered a highly entertaining profile of Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri, subtitled “the quiet revolutionary,” and illustrated with slogan-y artwork reminiscent of early 20th century art manifestos.  How ironic, I thought, coming from the mag I read to spy on the wealthy. Read More

Magazines as Influencers and Data Merchants

Five days ago, my former favorite magazine Nylon, a young woman’s fashion magazine out of NYC, announced that they are ending their print edition, of which I am a subscriber.  According to their press release, they will concentrate their (increasingly confused) efforts on their web and social media presence in their new role as “influencers.” Read More